Traditional Performing Arts in Kyoto
A visual guide from the Kyoto travel guide — see all posters in Visual Guides.
The Minamiza has held the east end of Shijo bridge since the first licensed kabuki theatres lined that riverbank, though the present hall dates from 1929, and its December kaomise season still opens with the cast names painted on wooden boards above the entrance. A few streets away, the five hanamachi districts each mount an annual dance run, from Miyako Odori in April to Kamogawa Odori in May and Gion Odori in November, with tickets released weeks ahead and the good dates gone quickly. Noh, kyogen and koto turn up in smaller halls year-round, often for less than the price of dinner.
Where to see it
The Minamiza in Gion runs kabuki in blocks through the year, with English earphone guides and, on many programmes, single-act tickets that let you sample an hour rather than commit to four. Kongo Nohgakudo, near Karasuma-Ichijo, is one of the few schools with its own indoor cypress stage and posts a monthly programme. In early June, Heian Jingu stages takigi noh outdoors by firelight, which is the most atmospheric way into the form. For a sampler, Gion Corner on Hanamikoji compresses kyomai dance, kyogen, koto, bunraku and tea into about an hour, and is honest about being an introduction.
Booking and etiquette
The hanamachi dances are the fixtures to plan a trip around. Kamishichiken's Kitano Odori usually runs late March into April, Gion Kobu's Miyako Odori through April, Miyagawacho's Kyo Odori alongside it, Pontocho's Kamogawa Odori in May and Gion Higashi's Gion Odori in November. Each lasts around an hour, and the seats that include a short tea service cost a little more and are generally worth it. Book online or through a hotel as soon as dates are published. Dress is ordinary, smart casual is plenty, photography stops once a performance starts, and latecomers wait for a scene break.